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Looking for a Fashenhues Dealer in your area?

Here is the updated list of my

Independent Authorized Fashenhues Dealers.

Updated list of my team of

Independant Authorized Fashenhues Dealers

Ruth Ann Jackson Butler

[email protected]

UPDATED as of May 23, 2019

(More on the way...)

If you would like to join my list of Authorized Fashenhues Dealers,

message me and I will show you how.



Debbie Abel

Ceramics & Crafts By Debbie

710 W. Bryce Avenue

Killeen, TX 76541

United States

(254) 338-6481


Joanne Abel

Lake Placid, Florida

(863) 260-0295


Becky Wollos Anderson

Becky's Ceramics and Glassworks

1699 Plett Rd

Cadillac, MI 49601

[email protected]

231 920 3979



Shannon O'Neil Buswell

Nana's Hope Chest of Ceramics & Crafts



[email protected]



Laurie Carlson

We're All Fired Up

on Facebook

Bridgeview, Illinois


[email protected]

NOTE: Classes in Bedford Park District



Mary Darr

Granny's Ceramics

5100 S University Parks Dr,

Waco, Texas 76706

United States


[email protected]



Tina Anderson Hayes &

Chip Hayes

Art Rageous Art Center

4649 S Clyde Morris Blvd

Unit 611

Port Orange, Fla 32129



Linda Hayes

Ceramics by Linda

121 E Utter Way

Tonto Basin AZ 85553

[email protected]


[email protected]

928 308 6388



Noreen Westlake James

B 'N' S Ceramics

930 Cheney Highway

Titusville, Fla 32780



[email protected]


Kim Jones

Ceramic Zone

7700 Richardson Rd

Willard, MD. 21874

[email protected]



Renee Meyer Lindquist

The Ceramic & Pottery Center

900 Hwy 3 N League City



[email protected]



Jeannie Manship

Billie June Texidor

Jenn Lopez

J & J Ceramics

123 Magnolia,Ridge Lane

Lexingyon, SC 29073



Sharon McCarty

Sharon's Ceramics N More

731 Couples

San Antonio, TX 78237



Tammy McKellar

Dust Collectibles Ceramics

12046 SR 105 N

Russellville Ar 72802


[email protected]

See " Dust Collectibles " on Facebook



Rosemary Nicklason

Over the Hill Ceramics

400 S E Lane Ave

Roseburg, Oregon

"Over The Hill Ceramics"

on Facebook [email protected]




Tassandra Preslar Page

Serendipity Seramics

Phoenix, Az

[email protected]


(Mostly online business)

See "Serendipity Seramics by Tazz "

on Facebook - call to order


Janice Podgurski

GG's Creations

3609 Old Oak Lane

Fort Smith, AR 72903



Brenda Britt-Poole

Brenda's Place

1588 Old Atlanta Hwy

Forsyth, Ga 31029




Jean Keenan Ragsdale

Time on My Hands Ceramics

Peyton, Colorado



Mary Rains &

Bailey Carbajal

Pouring Arts Ceramics

1139 S.W. 17

Oklahoma City

United States

(405) 886-6740


Vonnie Ross

Vonnie's Country Crafts

178 Private Road 3164

Gilmer, Texas 75644




Lisa Scruggs

Lisa's Ceramic Shop

115 Mayco Rd

Cowpens, South Carolina



[email protected]




Carole Singh


91 White Street

Springfield, MA 01108

[email protected]



Phyllis Smith

Old Country Store

4812 Willow Springs Rd

Little Rock, Ar. 72206


[email protected]


Debra Young-Starkey

Joyful Expressions Ceramics & Gifts

28 Lost Creek Rd

Candler, NC 28715

[email protected]



Paula Stover

Dragons to Dolls

15105 CR 558

Farmersville, Tx 75442


[email protected]



Tess Zumwalt Thornton

Ceramics by Tess

402 Grand Parkway

Suit 115

Katy, Tx


[email protected]


June L. Tucker

(Donna Gran Stowe Gould Asst.)

(KATS) Kiln Arts of Tulsa

103 S 109th E Pl.


Phone # 918-695-1979

Physical Address Only.



Pat Williams

Seagulls Ceramics

1650 N Hercules Ave

Suite B

Clearwater, Fl. 33765



Sharon Peeples Woolweaver

(More info coming- just moved to Kentucky)


Plus a new Dealer in Denver...

More info coming on this Dealer


Click Here to Add a Title

Some folks have had problems navigating my website to find the sessions I will be teaching...

Hopefully the pictures (from my cell) will help with that.

The Angel is the heading of every page...


1.  Once here on the website...

2. Click, upper right corner to reveal drop down

3. Click on words "Shows, Retreats, & Classes ( background around the words will darken

4. Scroll down to the session pictures of the show you are looking for... those are the choices for the sessions in my booth.

You can prepay to lock in your seat. I have a limited number of items per piece.

Everything needed is provided to complete your chosen project...

Contact me for any questions.

Product 2
Add to Cart
The "Atlanta Show" is just an example of how t find the show/session you are looking for.   Look for the show you are attending.  Each time the background  color changes, you have gone into a new Show/Class/Retreat/Camp, etc
The list of my Shows/Classes/Retreats/Camps can be found at the first of the page.. - Black letters with white background. 

For any issues, contact me on Messenger or through my email - [email protected]

Things you would like to know about how I use and teach the products made by

Fashenhues, Inc.

Basic FASHENHUES applications

By Ruth Ann Jackson Butler - updated 2/21/2019

Many folks have been asking about basic Fashenhues application. I will try to give you that information, the way I teach, in this file.

Keep in mind that different teachers teach differently. You should find the way that you are more comfortable with and use that method.


For doing your Fashenhues work, I suggest that you create your own color chart. Each person applies different pressure when you create your project, so someone else's color chart may not be the same colors that you achieve when you use the products. I have posted the bottles in the color chart at this time, and will be replacing them with my own color chips in the future, to help you see the colors I get when I use our products.


We suggest that you use either white T-Shirt type material to wipe back, or VIVA PAPER TOWELS - untextured... Until I tried the Viva, I had always used the T-Shirts and once I started using them, I love them, and Viva is what we now use in all my workshops.


Also... Equate Wet Ones... These are sold at most Walmarts – in the drug department. I buy them in the white canisters, usually found on the lower shelf, and run less than $2 for a canister of 120. These wet ones are odorless and work really well for our projects.





BRUSHES - Taklon or Natural shaders or soft dry brushes are what I recommend... We use the Royals, Kala, or Dona’s in class. I carry all three brands. NOTE: I am working on my own brush line, and will be introducing them here when I launch them.


Always use a different clean brush for each color. As you paint and wipe back, when you change colors, lay your cloths out in front of you, with the brush you used for that color on top of your cloths. You may need these later when you clean up your piece.


NEVER leave your brushes in water. This goes for any painting... This will cause them to come apart, and you pay too much for good brushes to ruin them by leaving them in water. Wooden handles will soak up the water, causing the paint to crack, and as the wood dries, it will shrink and the farral will come off... if plastic, the glue for the bristles will soften and your bristles will begin to fall out.

I would love to sell you more brushes, but you'd like me better if I teach you how to take care of the ones you already have. :)


As you work on your piece, and think... "I am not happy with what I am doing"... get up, walk away, take a look at it from a distance... WOW... it looks good.... Hold it up in front of a mirror... WOW... looks even better... holding it in front of a mirror - you see what other people see... keep in mind... YOU ARE ALWAYS YOUR WORST CRITIC... Your piece, even your first will be beautiful if you keep the following notes in mind...

1. Picking out your piece...

A. Greenware to bisque...

Be sure to clean and DETAIL your piece back very carefully. The badly detailed pieces will show exactly that.

The more detailed piece, the more your work will show up.

B. Bisque/ Purchased Bisque...

When you purchase a piece of bisque, before beginning with your Fashenhues, look carefully to be sure it is detailed back, and cleaned well. If necessary, use your Bisque file to fix any areas that may need attention... remember, if you can see it, the whole world can see it... For really bad bisque, you may have to use a Dremil tool to put the details back in, or to remove seam lines... Remember, the dremil works much faster than your hand... so proceed with caution in doing this.

2. Getting Started

A. With a soft, 1" to a 3/4" shader, load in either the C1044 White or C1048 White or C1244 Cream or C1288 Cream base coats.

B. If you use the C1244 or C1288 Cream base coats, you should put one complete coat on your bisque. Then apply one coat of C1044 or C1048 White base coat to complete your two coats of base coat. The advantage of using white over cream is that you can see where you missed basecoating, with each coat with the color difference. (Personally, I normally use white on white... I feel that I get a whiter base to start with... but I sell both). Now, if I want more of an Italian, Olive look to my finished piece, I will basecoat with C1244 or C1288 Cream.

C. Once you have your two coats of base coat dry, pour out a little - less than 1/2 oz of Antiquing Solution in a small disposable container. With another soft 3/4" brush, apply this completely over your base coat. Spread this product out, apply very

sparingly... If you have missed a spot, the bisque will soak in this product, and you will see a bit of a darker spot show up. Wipe back with your soft cloth, and reapply the white base coat. Check your entire piece in this manor... You should not have any puddles of Antiquing solution on your piece, as you work or when you finish. If you do, you have used way too much product. Wipe your entire piece with a clean cloth to be sure the Antiquing Solution is dry throughout.


3. Clean your basecoat and antiquing brushes, shape bristles back to their normal shape, lay aside to dry.

REMOVE ALL WATER FROM YOUR WORK AREA... you will not use any water again until you finish your project. If you leave your water on your work area, you WILL put your paint brush in the water... do not do this...

so... to be sure just completely remove it from your table totally.

4. Applying Colors - there are several ways to apply the colors. It all depends on the final outcome you would like with your piece.   The most common application, is to brush on, wipe back softly with a soft cloth/Viva paper towels, rotating your towel, using a clean spot each time.  You will go through many paper towels - we cut a full size paper towel into 4 squares.  

There are different tips that you need for different colors as well...

A. What most folks call Antiquing... the most commonly used product for this step is S18 or S182 Brown. You can antique with any of our colors though. (see Cinder dragon, picture - antiqued in Purple)

Keep in mind a couple of things about your work as you progress...

First, do not apply more color than you can wipe back before it dries...

Secondly, once you applied and wiped back any color to  your piece, if you have to stop working on your project, put your project in a plastic bag to prevent

the colors from setting up before you begin to add your other colors.

B. Once your entire piece is antiqued, you can begin to add your other colors. If you get some color on a spot that you didn't intend, try to wipe it off with your cloth, but keep in mind, that at the end, you will go back after you complete your project and clean up any areas that need your attention.

C. BRUSH ON, WIPE BACK - This is most common method of applying the colors. Your results will depend on how hard, or softly you wipe back. Everyone uses a different pressure in their work.

D. PRESS AND ROLL is another way to do this - brush your color on, put the cloth around your finger, smoothly, and press lightly on the spot you just painted, and roll your finger across it, just enough to remove the moisture, while leaving the color on the piece.

E. BLOT is another way to apply colors. This method can be used to either initially apply the color or to darken the color.   To APPLY the color in this method, pour out a small puddle of color onto your pallet, wrap the cloth around your finger, lightly press into color, blot off to the side, on your pallet, then lightly blot (press or wipe) this color onto your piece.

To DARKEN - find an area on the cloth (with lots of color on it) that you have used to wipe back, in a brush on/wipe back off method, pat the area that you need to darken with this spot on your cloth.

F. STIPPLE - you can also "stipple" your color onto your piece. This method is usually used when you want to add a bit of spotting to fruit, etc. I pour out a drop of paint, spread it out on the pallet, and with a Deer Foot brush, tip into the paint, and lightly stipple on the side of your pallet to be sure you don't have paint blobs, then lightly stiple (tap on) your piece.

G. Special notes - when applying your reds - NEVER WIPE BACK... you will get a bright pink. For a deep RED... depending on how much I think I will use on the piece, I pour out a puddle, as I begin my project, and set it aside. This step helps the stain to thicken while I'm working on my project, and helps me to get a deeper red color on my piece. I apply the red color to everything I want to be red before blotting my reds.   Always BLOT the moisture out of the reds... again,


H. Keep in mind that COLOR ERASES COLOR... so if you have an area that is lighter than you prefer... DO NOT apply more color, wipe back, expecting it to be darker, because it will not be darker, but lighter... Blotting will darken...

I. If you find that you are leaving fingerprints on your piece, hold your piece with a paper towel.

5. BLENDING MEDIUM... Be very carefully when using the blending medium.   It can get away from you very quickly, and you will have your entire piece covered with fingerprints.   The colors are already at a good consistency when you open your new bottles.   Pour out or use a dropper to dip out your colors. Do not leave the tops off your bottles - this will cause your product to thicken.   As a rule, I always add a drop of blending medium to the following colors, every time I pour them out on my tiles - S7 Blue Gray; S9 Gray; S13 Flesh; & S38 Rose. I've found over the years, if I do not add 1 drop to these, then I get a bit of a grainy color... with the blending medium, the colors just flow and turn out very smooth.   The video on the internet shows to TIP your brush into the blending medium before every time you paint. I do not do this, nor do I teach this. The reason is, as I stated above, the products are already at a good consistency, and mostly because people do not understand the difference between TIP and LOAD... they end up loading their brushes and using way to much blending media and get themselves into trouble...

6. When you finish your piece, and are ready to spray, look it over carefully to see if there are any places that need to be touched up.  

To touch up, first, use the cloth with the color you want to be where it needs to be touched up... if that does not do it... use the brush that you applied the original color with - NO FRESH PAINT... Fresh paint will change the color. Using the brush that has dried in the same time frame as your piece, it will help you to touch up any areas that need it...

7. Earlier, I mentioned the Wet Ones. I use the wet ones to wipe the brown back in areas I want to have lighter, like on the Winken Troll's hair and beard. 

On Santa, where I want it lighter, but want the depth, I start with S-9 Gray instead of the S-18/S182 Brown... then wipe back with a cloth, and lighten the tops even more, by wiping back with a wet one...

AND... the wet ones take the colors off of your hands... just remember to throw the wet ones away, do not set down in your work area, as you might put your piece

down on one and the color will be gone.

ALSO... dry your hands before touching your piece again.

NOW... I think this covers a lot of questions... as a basic information on using Fashenhues...

Basically, Brush the colors on, lightly wipe them back... SMALL AREAS AT A TIME... APPX 3" OR LESS... do areas that you can wipe back before it dries. Especially important in workrooms that have fans...

**Totally confused now? Just send me a message at [email protected] and I will try to answer your questions. OR... check the under Events and see where there is a class/seminar close to you...

I travel teach between March - October annually... need a class in your area? Let's see what we can do if there are none presently scheduled...

 If you have any questions that are not  answered on this web site,

please feel free to contact me see my contact information on the right, below

Welcome to the Magical world of FASHENHUES...

Ruth Ann Jackson (Perkins)

Independant Authorized 

FASHENHUES Distributor

and Traveling Instructor

As well as a

Longtime consumer of


Contact information:


[email protected]


[email protected]

P. O. Box 148

Lometa, Texas 76853

United States




















The correct spelling for the company name is


This name has a trademark belonging to Frank Paradise.



Ruth Ann Jackson Perkins

Ruth Ann, the Instructor

My start in the Ceramic industry was back in the early 1980s, in the DFW area of Texas, with porcelain dolls.    Once I saw and learned that I could do FASHENHUES, my entire world changed.  I began doing projects for my friends, eventually came in possession of a warehouse.  I was able to start my first Ceramic shop, there in Duncanville, Texas, before I moved to Manassas, Va, for a few months for a job in another field. 

To sell or to teach, I felt that I needed to go learn how to use the products myself.  So, my certifications are in Duncan, Mayco, Gare, Doc Holiday, Ceramichrome, Kimple, Dona's and, with the previous owners, was certified in FASHENHUES.  Presently, there is not a recognized Certification for FASHENHUES.   My second Ceramic shop was in Graham, Texas.  Shortly after closing it, after I moved again, I had the opportunity to purchase P & C Ceramic Supply from my friends and then the retiring owners Bill & Charlotte Wilson.    I sold P & C January 2017.

When the opportunity to become an Authorized FASHENHUES Distributor, and Traveling Instructor came up, I was delighted, and blessed to be able to step into this position to share my love of FASHENHUES with others.   And now, the ability to create a new web site to help others is just one more blessing...

Ruth Ann, the person

To introduce myself to the new folks who might be checking out my site, I am Ruth Ann Jackson Butler., the wife of Larry Butler. I am also Christian, mother of 3 grown daughters and one grown step daughter, with a host of grandchildren, and even 5 great grandchildren.  

I was born in Illinois, but my family relocated in Fort Worth, Texas before I was a teenager.

The rest of the time, I've lived in Texas, other than a 6 month period where  I went to Manassas, Va to work.  Then, back to Texas, now in Lometa, Tx. 

I love my family and spend as much of the off the road time with them as I possibly can.  

My love of art is from my Mother, who was quite  artistic. 

I am so totally lucky that God has blessed me with a wonderful, large family and with so many, many wonderful friends, customers, and students.   My life is truly blessed. 

Hopefully I am able to share some of these blessings with you through my love of art and teaching.